Usually when things are complicated, it means more stress, more work, and more effort, but in the end, it's worth it. The same holds true for vintage wristwatches, where gifted artisans and engineers from years gone by labored months and years to create co
Usually when things are complicated, it means more stress, more work, and more effort, but in the end, it’s worth it. The same holds true for vintage wristwatches, where gifted artisans and engineers from years gone by labored months and years to create complicated timepieces that transcend art and talent. When it comes to vintage wristwatches, the highest realms of respect and value are reserved for these watches that do much more than merely tell time.
The very fine, complicated Swiss wristwatch featured in today’s offering is a prime example of this phenomenon. It is in 100% all-original condition down to even the original crystal.
Was it sold by a manufacturer whose perceived brand value make it a five-figure watch? No. But was it finely crafted with heaps of capabilities that would make purists collectors mouth water? I think so. Complex even in comparison to many of today’s watches, it displays the month, date, and day of the week along with the phases of the moon. When set correctly it is a display of incredible precision to top a deserving gentleman’s wrist.
On top of its triple calendar moonphase functions it added automatic winding – a bi-directional winding one at that! – to the movement, something that less than a handful of watch movements did at the time.
Resulting from a partnership between the two fine Swiss firmsSemca and Ebauches S.A., which became ETA, it is powered by the Bidynator 693 engine. Utilized by premier firms like Breitling and Gubelin, a Swiss retailer similar to Tiffany & Co., the 693 is a well-designed caliber.
So well designed, in fact, that DuBois et Fils decided to use a stash of new-old-stock Bidynator movements sitting in storage since the ’50’s to power their DBF006 collection. Even the basic time and date only models in steel in the collection all have retail prices that start at over $4,000 and climb to over $5,000 – in steel with no additional complications. So confident are they in the Bidynator’s reliability that instead of offering a usual two-year warranty, they come with a five-year warranty!
Our triple calendar with moonphase Bidynator powered beauty has a full sized 14K case which is the same size as a Rolex Datejust. It is in gorgeous original condition and has never polished. The facets and lines are crisp. Our photos couldn’t begin to do it justice.
Its balanced, complicated two-tone dial, which has both luminous and a red date track, is original and untouched with only light aging and toning. And its fine movement is very clean. Photos of the inside available upon request.
One of our Master Watchmakers has disassembled it down to its last screw and cleaned and oiled it. It is running strong and true, keeping time essentially on par with a new, modern high-end brand’s watches.
For the finishing touch, we have equipped it with a brand new crocodile strap making it ready for immediate enjoyment.
Included with the purchase is a one-year C.O.T. international warranty on the movement and its function, a full-page custom printed Certificate of Authenticity, and a new timing certificate attesting to its performance.
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